Acne is one of the most common skin concerns, and the skincare aisle is full of products promising to clear it. A handful of well-researched ingredients do most of the work. Here is what each one does and how to use it.
Salicylic acid (BHA)
An oil-soluble exfoliant that gets inside pores to clear excess oil and dead skin. It is ideal for blackheads, whiteheads and oily skin. Look for it in face washes or leave-on treatments at around 0.5 to 2%.
Benzoyl peroxide
Reduces the acne-causing bacteria on the skin and helps calm red, inflamed pimples. A 2.5% strength is often as effective as higher strengths and is less irritating. It can bleach fabrics, so use white towels and pillowcases.
Retinoids (such as adapalene)
Retinoids speed up cell turnover to stop pores from clogging, and help fade marks over time. They are a mainstay of long-term acne treatment. Start two or three nights a week, use a pea-sized amount for the whole face, and expect some dryness at first. Ask your dermatologist which retinoid and strength is right for you, and avoid retinoids if you are pregnant or planning a pregnancy.
Niacinamide
A gentle, versatile ingredient that helps regulate oil, calm redness and improve uneven tone and post-acne marks. It pairs well with most other actives.
Azelaic acid
Helps with both breakouts and the dark marks they leave behind, and is generally well tolerated by sensitive skin.
Habits that make a difference
- Don't skip moisturiser. Treatments work better and irritate less when the skin barrier is healthy. Choose a light, non-comedogenic formula.
- Wear a non-comedogenic sunscreen every day, as many acne treatments make skin more sun-sensitive and the sun darkens acne marks.
- Avoid picking or squeezing, which raises the risk of scars and pigmentation.
- Introduce one active at a time, and give it 8 to 12 weeks.
- Change pillowcases regularly and clean your phone screen.
When to see a dermatologist
If you have painful cysts or nodules, acne that is leaving scars, or breakouts that haven't improved after three months of consistent care, a dermatologist can prescribe stronger treatments.
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